With the tank fully re-installed, its time to head up front and button up the fuel rail. Remove the drain hose you installed, and re-install the valve into the test port, making sure its snug, then reconnect the battery.
Once that’s completed, go back and fill the gas tank back up with the gas you removed.
For testing, you have two choices here; you can choose to simply turn on the key (don’t start it yet!), or use the same clip lead to prime the system. I chose the clip lead, and ran the fuel pump for a little bit until I heard all air bubbles pass through. I also had my fuel pressure gauge on and made sure pressures were correct.
TIP: See https://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html for information on baseline fuel pressure readings, amongst other useful info for Grand Nationals.
STOP! Before trying to start it, verify you have no leaks around the test port, and go out back again, and verify you have no leaks from the gas tank. Everything should be dry!
One pressures look good and you primed the system, give it a test start and see how it goes. It should start right up and run normally. If anything seems awry, SHUT IT OFF. Let the car run for a bit, while continuing to monitor both the engine and gas tank for any leaks. Make sure the pressure still looks good.
If so – CONGRATS – you replaced the sender and fuel pump. You should now take it to the gas station for a tank of premium fuel, then carefully test your running fuel pressure before putting your foot into it.
Does the gas gauge work? If you’re like me…NO, IT DIDN’T! See part 2 for the rest of the gas gauge fix (coming soon).